Discover the Ingredient - Polyglutamic Acid (PGA)

What Is Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) is a water-soluble peptide made up of repeating units of the amino acid glutamic acid. It is produced through microbial fermentation, most commonly using Bacillus subtilis in a soy-based medium. PGA naturally occurs in fermented foods like natto, a traditional Japanese dish, where it contributes to the dish's characteristic sticky texture.

In skincare, PGA primarily acts as a hydrating agent. Because of its high molecular weight, PGA forms a lightweight film on the skin's surface. This film helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and enhances moisture retention.

Scientific Comparison: PGA vs. Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is well-known for its ability to bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. However, studies suggest that polyglutamic acid (PGA) can bind up to 5,000 times its weight in water under optimal conditions. While HA penetrates deeper into the epidermis, PGA primarily functions on the skin’s surface, where it forms a protective and hydrating barrier.

Another key distinction between the two lies in their functional mechanisms: 

- HA attracts moisture from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin. 

- PGA retains existing moisture by forming a film on the skin's surface while promoting the natural production of Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), particularly hyaluronic acid.

This synergistic behavior indicates that using PGA alongside HA may enhance overall hydration effectiveness across multiple layers of the stratum corneum.

Key Skin Benefits of Polyglutamic Acid

1. 💧 Enhanced Moisture Retention & Barrier Protection 

   Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) serves as an exceptional humectant, effectively binding water molecules and locking them into the upper layers of the skin. This action significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while strengthening the skin barrier against environmental stressors.

2. 🧬 Improved Elasticity and Texture 

   Clinical studies indicate that PGA boosts skin elasticity and texture by maintaining optimal hydration levels. This hydration helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and uneven surface texture, promoting smoother, more youthful-looking skin.

3. 🔬 Encourages Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) and Supports Epidermal Function

   Research shows that PGA enhances the production of Natural Moisturizing Factors in keratinocytes, which are crucial for healthy skin renewal and effective barrier function. This support fosters overall skin vitality.

4. 🌿 Biocompatibility with a Low Risk of Irritation 

   Being non-toxic, biodegradable, and well-tolerated by even the most sensitive skin types, PGA is an excellent choice for formulations focused on barrier repair, post-procedure recovery, or daily hydration routines. It offers these benefits with minimal risk of irritation, making it suitable for a wide range of users.

Formulation Considerations 

PGA is compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, including:

- Hyaluronic acid and glycerin (humectants)

- Niacinamide and panthenol (barrier-supporting agents)

- Vitamin C and peptides (anti-aging actives)

- Exfoliants such as AHAs and BHAs (which help reduce irritation potential)

Recommended usage levels in formulations vary from 0.1% to 3%, depending on the intended function, such as hydration, film formation, or a skin-plumping effect.

Due to its film-forming ability, PGA is also an excellent candidate for makeup primers and setting sprays. It contributes to a smoother finish and moisture lock-in without creating a sticky feel.

Market Examples of PGA in Skincare Products

Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) is gaining attention in the skincare world for its hydrating and plumping properties. Here are some notable products that feature PGA as a hero ingredient:

- The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Serum: This lightweight serum is designed to visibly plump and smooth dehydrated skin, making it a great addition to any skincare routine.

- Charlotte Tilbury Magic Serum Crystal Elixir: A luxurious blend of PGA, niacinamide, and vitamin C, this serum enhances glow and provides deep hydration for a radiant complexion.

- Hada Labo Gokujyun Alpha Lotion: This popular Japanese formulation combines PGA with multiple weights of hyaluronic acid, delivering multi-layer hydration for skin that feels plump and supple.

- Kate Somerville Dilo Oil Restorative Skin Cream: Featuring PGA, this moisturizer helps counteract dryness caused by retinol, offering long-term moisture balance and a smoother texture.

These products showcase the versatility of PGA in addressing various skin concerns, particularly hydration and moisture retention.

Final Thoughts:

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) marks a significant leap forward in the realm of topical hydration technologies. Its remarkable water-binding capacity, exceptional biocompatibility, and ability to fortify the skin barrier position PGA as a frontrunner in the next generation of skincare formulations. As formulators and brands increasingly seek innovative alternatives to traditional humectants and barrier-enhancing ingredients, PGA emerges as a powerful solution for combating dryness, dehydration, and compromised skin.

Utilized independently or in synergy with established hydrators like hyaluronic acid, PGA not only meets the growing demand for effective hydration but also elevates the overall efficacy of skincare products. Its versatility and performance make it a valuable addition to both clinical-grade and consumer-friendly skincare lines. In essence, polyglutamic acid is poised to redefine our approach to skincare, offering meaningful solutions that enhance the health and appearance of the skin. Embracing PGA in formulations not only reflects a commitment to innovation but also paves the way for a future of advanced skincare that prioritizes hydration and skin wellness.

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